TIKLTHS
Full Member
Do it in a fullsize... or break something trying!
Posts: 122
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Post by TIKLTHS on Nov 11, 2003 23:03:44 GMT -5
Ok My Dad has a 79 or 80 SR5 with the r22 motor and originally had a 4 spd but now has a trashed 5 spd. He wants to make it trailworthy where should we start. Have been looking doubler or V-6 conversion. Any thoughts all John
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Post by bluexj89 on Nov 12, 2003 0:03:21 GMT -5
Doubler is a great mod. HP is not that big of a concern when your Krawling. Oh yeah Bob the bed, the over hang on toys kill ya.
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Post by ksuyellowtj on Nov 12, 2003 0:19:52 GMT -5
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Post by FatAzzRunner on Nov 12, 2003 1:30:53 GMT -5
Good starting truck. Yotas are great because you dont have to dump tons of money into them to make them trail worthy. What size tires might he want to run? I would personally go with this: 1. 4.88 gears front and rear --> Go with 5.29's front and rear if you run bigger than 35's. 2. spool the rear (About 215 bucks) or weld the rear (Free) For the front locker get a detroit (425??) 3. Get crawler gears from Marlin Crawler and put them in your self or you can buy a complete case ready to install. (price varies greatly here.) Doublers are nice here but if you aing got the money then a single case works great. I have a single case with 4.7 to 1 gearing and my crawl ratio is about 100:1. 4. Buy some used 35's or better yet my good used 36" TSL's. ;D 5. For lift in front. Buy some Jeep wagoneer springs and for the lift in the rear buy some old 63" rear chevy truck springs. The flex will shock you and it will ride awsome. 6. Now, this is pretty much a mandatory thing if you dont want to spend your weekends fixing broken birfields(Toyotas only real weak point AFAIC). You will need to buy a set of Bobby Long "LONGFIELD" replacement birfields. They are super strong and will hold up for a long, long time especially if you only run 33's or 35's. (I run 37's and I like the skinny pedal and mine are still going strong.) 7. As far as the bed overhang. Yank the bed, its will rust above the fenders anyway and build a 40 dollar flat bed. Cheap and easy and absolutely no overhang. Not too terribly much money involved and it will crawl about anything you point it at. If you have any other you can also call me at 316-788-4568 and I can talk to you in person. Or just reply here. ;D
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Bones
Full Member
Posts: 114
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Post by Bones on Nov 12, 2003 8:13:14 GMT -5
Good starting truck. Yotas are great because you dont have to dump tons of money into them to make them trail worthy. Pffft! Yeah right 1. 4.88 gears front and rear --> Go with 5.29's front and rear if you run bigger than 35's. 2. spool the rear (About 215 bucks) or weld the rear (Free) For the front locker get a detroit (425??) 3. Get crawler gears from Marlin Crawler and put them in your self or you can buy a complete case ready to install. (price varies greatly here.) Doublers are nice here but if you aing got the money then a single case works great. I have a single case with 4.7 to 1 gearing and my crawl ratio is about 100:1. 4. Buy some used 35's or better yet my good used 36" TSL's. ;D 5. For lift in front. Buy some Jeep wagoneer springs and for the lift in the rear buy some old 63" rear chevy truck springs. The flex will shock you and it will ride awsome. 6. Now, this is pretty much a mandatory thing if you dont want to spend your weekends fixing broken birfields(Toyotas only real weak point AFAIC). You will need to buy a set of Bobby Long "LONGFIELD" replacement birfields. They are super strong and will hold up for a long, long time especially if you only run 33's or 35's. (I run 37's and I like the skinny pedal and mine are still going strong.) 7. As far as the bed overhang. Yank the bed, its will rust above the fenders anyway and build a 40 dollar flat bed. Cheap and easy and absolutely no overhang. Not too terribly much money involved and it will crawl about anything you point it at. 1. 5.29's if you drive it on the road, keep the stock 4.10's if it's a trailer queen 2. Agreed on the rear, ARB or elocker the front, I hate Detroits 3. Go with stock dual cases for lots of gearing choices and add a low range set later if needed 4. Agree, buy used, the seller takes the hit 5. That's all up to you there, can be doen realatively cheap and work okay, or spend some green and it'll work a lot better 6. Run a D44 with Warns and CTM's Better yet a 60 7. Keep the bed and dovetail and bob it. Or build one out of 2x4's and plywood 8. ROLLCAGE!!!
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Post by Yotaman on Nov 12, 2003 17:31:37 GMT -5
Fatazzrunner has a good plan. I got a 82 long bed and am very happy with its capability. What I did is weld the rear diff, built longer shackles and a 2inch body (both of those were on there when I bought it) then put on some 33 MT I had laying around then bobbed the bed. I agree don't wast time cutting and welding on the bed if its got rust in it. Just build a cheep and light flat bed. I have a 20R from a 79 yota and a 5spd. You will want either a dual T-case kit or a set of crawler gears. Iknow its high on my list. I have not yet messed with springs yet but am plannig to very soon. There are cheep way of lifting these. Swaping the rear spring to the front and swaping 2wd mazda pickup springs to the rear. I only have 3inch of toatal lift and clear my 33s with no problem. I have only just over 400 buck in my truck including the purchase price. Granted its a trailer queen but it serves its purpose. Your truck will serve as a great platform This is a great site for finding yota technical info. home.4x4wire.com/erik/toyota_info.htm
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Post by FatAzzRunner on Nov 13, 2003 0:26:51 GMT -5
Pffft! Yeah right Well, I dont think they do "IF, IF, IF, IF" and only "IF" you just want a basic once in a while toy for the trails that will take you to an unlimited range of trails. I doubt that he being a "Father" meaning older than his 40's (Mayber, since I dont know how old TICKLETHIS is)I'm sure and probablly living in Kansas, is going to want to dump the money you or I have in ours. I took it that he was just looking to get into it. I would have given different suggestions, more like you did on a build up if I knew he was gonna be a hardercore rockcrawler. 1. 5.29's if you drive it on the road, keep the stock 4.10's if it's a trailer queen 2. Agreed on the rear, ARB or elocker the front, I hate Detroits 3. Go with stock dual cases for lots of gearing choices and add a low range set later if needed 4. Agree, buy used, the seller takes the hit 5. That's all up to you there, can be doen realatively cheap and work okay, or spend some green and it'll work a lot better 6. Run a D44 with Warns and CTM's Better yet a 60 7. Keep the bed and dovetail and bob it. Or build one out of 2x4's and plywood 8. ROLLCAGE!!! 1. 5.29's if you drive it on the road and are gonna run bigger than 35's. In my own opinion. If I redid mine, I would probablly only use 4.88's but that is the beauty of all this..........There are so many choices and each person likes different stuff. 2. At this point I would also change to an ARB or Toyota e-locker if I could do it again but I drive mine alot on and off road and There are definately times I wish I could just flick a switch in the cab and unlock, but I am also very happy with the performance of my Detroit. 3. I dont have much response to this, I would like duals but at this time I am happy with my single case with crawler gears. 4. YUP!! 5. I like the wagonners and chevy set up, far cheaper than All-Pro or Alcan and works awsome. You will have to do some set up and testing though to get it dialed in where your happy with it. Here for sure, If I could have done it over, I would have gone that route and saved huge amounts of GREEN. 6. HeeewwwEEEeeee, talk about some GREEN. Man, I would love to switch to D60's front and rear, but the money keeps me with Yota axles. 7. Many options here. 8. This is fo sho true ;D I would really like to have a cage, especially with my record at Disney, 4 trips and 2 flops, d**n, thats half!! Good luck on your build if so choose to accept it.
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TIKLTHS
Full Member
Do it in a fullsize... or break something trying!
Posts: 122
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Post by TIKLTHS on Nov 13, 2003 20:53:10 GMT -5
Thanks for all the ideas . Like I said he's just wanting to start building it . Not drop 6 grand in one winter . Well never know about that . I guess if I had the 6 large I would drop it in my K-5 in a heartbeat. Thanks again all for the ideas. John
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81Toy
New Member
Posts: 26
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Post by 81Toy on Nov 19, 2003 21:00:30 GMT -5
Thank you all for the info. Would like details on the wagoner/ chevy truck springs for the lift. Would like to go with 33s but might use the 35s off Johns Blazer. Which would be cheaper the doubler set up or the crawler gears? Where would be an economical place to get either? Will probably go with a spool or a lincoln on the back, and am not sure on the frount. What about 4 speed vs. 5speed which would be best? Am new to this any help would be greatly appreciated. If I could get a low enough crawler gear would probably stay with the 4.10 for now.
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Post by bluexj89 on Nov 19, 2003 21:32:45 GMT -5
Harold (Zekesride, on this board) Might have a 5 speed that hewould sell. I am not sure on this but I thought I would air it.
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TIKLTHS
Full Member
Do it in a fullsize... or break something trying!
Posts: 122
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Post by TIKLTHS on Nov 28, 2003 22:44:41 GMT -5
Thanks for the tip Mark. If i'm not mistakin' he is gonna try to run 33's for now. I think the biggest issue is the springs . well after the tranny is taken care of. John
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