full size in a yj?

[yjrockcrawler]

ok i wana go full size in my yj cuss i think bigger is better lol and i think it would look mean and tuff ahha, so what would be the best to put in it and the least mods to do ? and then what do i need to do ? like new drive lines? and so on thanks Heath

[ksuyellowtj]

Its not that hard for a YJ, it all depends on what tire size you want to run. The hardest part is if you want to keep your stock t-case is finding a driver side front axle. There are a lot more passenger side dana 44s. I would run a dana 60 or a 14 bolt rear but that could be over kill if you want to run only 33's or 35's. You could get wagoneer axles, the front is driver side drop so it would work with your t-case. Also they are dana 44's, I would think you will need new drive shafts.

[ksuyellowtj]

You may beable to use your drive shafts but have them shortented or lengthed. Are you runing a SYE now? I would get a dana 300 and find a dana 44 from a chevy with passenger side drop.

[yjrockcrawler]

nope no sye kit yet and will the dana 300 bolt up to the ax 15 with any mods? i think i found a ff14bolt too now i just need a front end

[ksuyellowtj]

Down East Offroad says the dana 300 bolts directly behind a AX-15 or NV3550 with No adaptor needed. If you use the Dana 300 then you will need a longer rear drive shaft becuase it is 4" shorter than a np231 with a slip yoke eliminator abd 8" shorter then a stock np231.
You will have to run a SYE if you keep your np231. Finding a dana 44 front shouldn't be that hard.

[yjrockcrawler]

ok now how will the stering work out ? and is it a pain in the rear to put rear stear that would be later down the road and tires i will run 35 to 37s

[ksuyellowtj]

I'm not realy sure on the steering, I don't know much about that. You have to get a front axle to put in the rear to do rear steering. Are you going to do a spring over? If so you could fit 37s or so. Robin or Mark I'm sure would know about the steering.

[yjrockcrawler]

i dont know if i wana do a spring over i have a 4.5 lift on it and then a 3 inch body too so that would be like 12 to 14 inchs of lift when im done and then i would be on 44s lol

[ksuyellowtj]

If you do a spring over and trim the body you could fit 38s to 40's I'm sure if not bigger. You don't really want the 3" body lift becuase thats a little to much. A 2" body lift is about the limit then anything higher the body mount spacers can break off and then your body goes flying off. With stock springs you will get around 6" to 7" if I remember right with a SOA. With your finders trimed allready you can fit a bigger tire with less lift.

[yjrockcrawler]

ya the body lift was on it when i got the jeep and i have a new 3 inch body for it i have to cut off the old body mounts that are welded to the frame and i have new brackets that weld back on and then the pucks will come out and then i just put the re 4.5 extrem duty lift on it too and the biggest ill prob go for now is 37and i heard the rear stear is not that bad just a big pain in the pocket book lol and with the lift i have now i can put 36 on it now

[ksuyellowtj]

On the rear steer, I think you could convert a rear axle to it but it would cost a lot. So the body lift you have now, the guy before you welded the pucks to the body and frame? I would still only put a 1" or 2" body lift back on it.

[yjrockcrawler]

no it have the plastic puck lift but what the pucks sit on the metal thats welded to the frame i have new ones that are taller and that gets rid of the pucks and back to norm just taller

[bluexj89]

I thought you were wanting to sell the YJ a while back? Any ways. Rear steer is big money. Front is no problem either. You can get a D44 out of a Ford pu or blazer. If you do a Ford 1/2 front MAKE SURE you get one that is pre 78 the following link is awsome on what to look for Great Dana 44 article If you go with a 3/4 Ford I think pre 77 is the way to go also but I am not sure if the tubes carry the same dimentions as the 1/2 tons do unless it is a Dana 60. For steering I would suggest X over with flat top knuckels. Here is a link to look for what to look for in Dana 44 knucklesFlat top knuckle article. The above applies for keeping the diff on the drivers side. If you get Chevy front axle then either you swap axle tube from side to side or go with a different T-case.

Now leagal and daily driver issues. Does where you live hammer for tires sticking out of the fender wells? If so you must get wider flares. Days like today you tires will sling mud all over you widshield and windows. And if you play in mud the first place mud will go is right in front of you vision.

Personally I would not go full width on something just for looks. It isn't worth the headaches. If you wheel a bunch and are breaking axles of need the extra stability then I would say go for it. Hope this help some.

[yjrockcrawler]

it will be a daliy driver in the summer but i want to build it for play and i live in overland park and thay havent never said nothing in the past with tire sticking out and the mud im done with that i love to crawl so its not going to be an asphalt crawler

[bluexj89]

Well if you go with like a ford Axle your axles will be a total of 6" wider. so 3" on each side. Plus is you run more back spaceing you can add a couple more inches. Well now it all depends on how big of axles you want to run.